Restaurateur Massimo Lusardi, who opened popular UES Italian wine bar Uva in 2005, debuted his second Italian restaurant Pagani last week in the West Village. Commanding the bustling corner of Bleecker Street at 7th Avenue, the restaurant offers 64 seats for diners in both the sunlight-filled bar area and smaller sectioned dining sections throughout the space. At once rustic and refined, the restaurant contains elements harkening back to the space's historic roots as the O. Pagani & Bros. music store. Taavo Somer—the James Beard Award winner behind Freemans and Isa—designed the space, bringing in vintage touches like reclaimed wood and tile floorings with contemporary elements that bring the space into this century.
Executive Chef Mark Barrett—whose previous gigs include Danny Meyer's fated Indian spot Tabla and Mario Batali's flagship Babbo—steps out on his own here with a menu of multi-regional Italian fare. Starters of a Farm Poached Egg ($9) with oyster mushroom, baby spinach and crispy pancetta vinaigrette and Braised Beets ($9) with quinoa, baby arugula, citrus hazelnuts, bleu cheese and chives stand out.
The hearty pasta menu includes a traditional Pappardelle Bolognese ($16), whole wheat Garganelli ($19) with spicy sausage, red onion and tomato sauce and a carrot/chive Tagliatelle ($19) with zucchini, string beans and tomato. For proteins, Chef Barrett offers a "Folded Chicken" ($19) with arugula, Parmigiano, garden tomatoes, spinach and dried figs as well as a slow roasted Veal Shoulder ($25) with potato puree, broccoli rabe and wild mushrooms.
Italian cured meats and cheese platters, as well as a selection of crostini and arancini pair nicely with a glass of Italian wine or an herbacious and fizzy Aperol Spritz ($10). As befitting the current cocktail obsession, celebrated mixologist Sean McClure created a line of cocktails that also nod to the space's former musical history. The "Nipper" ($10)—named for the iconic RCA Dog—mixes Prosecco, Esprit de June, chamomile and lemon while the "B-Side Lyric" ($12) rocks Excellia Blanco Tequila, pineapple, jalapeno, Sauternes and lime.
289 Bleecker Street, (212) 488-5800; paganinyc.com. Open daily 5 p.m. to 1 a.m.
