The latest in our Quick Bites series brings us to Chinatown for some healthy, SoCal fare.
THE VIBE
Smart, affable New Jersey natives Sabrina De Sousa and Alissa Wagner have pulled off a neat trick with their SoCal-ish restaurant Dimes, both in its first incarnation on Division Street and in their newly-opened space a couple of blocks west on Canal. Basically, it's as if a slice of Venice Beach were plopped down onto what is still a nicely grimy stretch of southeast Chinatown.
At Dimes 2.0 you have what is again an effortlessly stylish room, all curving, organic flow (the new booths and corner tables were custom made), the light wood and neutral tones punctuated by dramatic plant life via Meta Floral. It's sunny by day and flatteringly, if dimly, lit at night.
And, of course, you have your "dimes" (as in 10s)—the young, pretty, and expensively accessorized crowd who packed the place on opening weekend are likely to do so for many nights to come.
The new Dimes is as friendly and welcoming as ever, without even a tiny bit of healthier-than-thou aloofness, and the food remains stellar, with Chef Gerri Noack and crew consistently delivering well-conceived, beautifully-executed dishes out of their now-fully-equipped kitchen.
Photo by Scott Lynch/Gothamist
THE BITES
I ate at the new Dimes on both Friday and Saturday nights last weekend, once early, once late, and was able to try almost all of the new dishes on the dinner menu. Bottom line: six plates of food, six big winners.
Most of the new items are in the completely revamped Small Plates section of the menu—De Sousa and Wagner plan on adding daily specials once everyone settles in—and, no surprise, vegetables dominate the proceedings. It's not necessarily light fare, though. In the excellent Grilled Treviso starter for example, the endive-like leaves, all bitter and with plenty of bite, are glistening with anchovy dressing, and surrounded by tiny chunks of plum that add both sweetness and acid.
I'm not sure how the Dimes crew can consistently make Sunchokes so exciting—these tubers seem like filler at most places—but the handful you get in the new starter here are superb, braised and covered in escarole, with a generous slathering of marinated goat cheese. Burrata makes its way onto the new menu as well, and it, too, is as orgasmic as ever, paired here with stalks of asparagus and a "kale-hazelnut" pesto that you will find yourself sopping up with your sourdough toast.
Maitake Toast smartly contrasts the earthy funk of these hen-of-woods mushrooms with a bright orange-peel drizzle, crunchy hazelnuts, sharp piave cheese, and fiery chili oil. The crock of gamey, fatty Duck Rilettes is a worthy replacement for one of my favorites from the old Dimes menu, the Chicken Liver Mousse, especially when paired with the sweet-and-sharp plum mostarda on your baguette (note: clearly the kitchen's not afraid of carbs).
Moving down into Large Plates territory, I can only assume that holdover dishes such as Harissa Salmon, Spiced Pork Meatballs, and Black Rice are all still first-rate, so I tried something new, the Bar Steak, and was rewarded with a terrific piece of perfectly seasoned hanger steak that was nonetheless almost overshadowed by the delicious slab of sweet potato and kale gratin.
Just fantastic, all of it.
Photo by Scott Lynch/Gothamist
THE VERDICT
The staff here will greet you with warm smiles and fully professional service, and the prices are low enough, topping out at $20 for the steak and the salmon, but mostly in the low- to mid-teens. In the end though, it's the food that always makes me so happy at Dimes. Really hits my sweet spot. It's delicious and satisfying, lively and creative, and I find myself returning here whenever I can.
The new Dimes is located at 49 Canal Street, between Orchard and Ludlow, and will be open Monday through Friday from 8:00 a.m. to 12:00 midnight, on Saturday from 9:00 to midnight, and on Sunday from 9:00 to about 10:00 p.m. Small plates and drinks will soon be served from 4:00 and 6:00, but the kitchen is closed in the late afternoon during this initial opening period.
Meanwhile, old Dimes will soon reopen as Dimes Superette, with take-out food, organic produce, and De Sousa and Wagner's homemade apothecary-type items, like candles, scents, and lotions.
No reservations. Beer, wine, and new cocktails. 212-925-1300; dimesnyc.com
