24-year-old chef Jessica Floyd has been working between 14 and 17 hours a day for the last two weeks at Islero, the new “modern Spanish” restaurant on 50th Street. The chef, who also handles the pastry program, hasn’t had a break since the place opened 11 days ago, and things aren’t slowing down any time soon. Islero will open for lunch service on March 3rd, and Floyd’s working on a bunch of ideas, such as a tasting menu paired with Spanish and Portuguese wines and a petit four take-home bag for every guest.
She’s also not complaining: Despite her age, Floyd is used to the long hours. The Texas native worked at db Bistro Moderne for Daniel Boulud, who recommended she diversify by spending some time with Michel Troisgros and George Blanc in Europe. Floyd had previously spent some time in France, “first at a fish market, then a café in Normandy;” she also landed trails in the kitchens of some of the world’s most influential chefs, including Michel Bras and Pierre Gagnaire before returning to New York.
Floyd’s food at Islero is billed as “modern Spanish cuisine"; her menu is rooted in a classic technique that features intriguing salty/sweet small plates like piment d’espelette fries with maple ketchup ($5) and fried plantains with crème fraiche and sea salt caramel ($6). Entrees run from $17-$25.
While Floyd takes the inevitable arrival of food critics seriously, one potential customer throws her for a loop: “If Daniel came in,” says the chef, “I’d be totally thrilled. But I’d be very, very nervous. He’s been my mentor and he taught me a lot. I have so much respect for him.” Note to Boulud: get the mac and cheese with manchego and pata negra ham.
Islero
247 East 50th Street
(212) 752-1414
Photo: Tejal Rao
