Elegant, yet comfortable, intimate yet spacious, Devin Tavern, the recently opened Tribeca haven for fine-tuned rustic American fare arrives from the restaurateurs who brought us Dylan Prime. Inhabiting two spacious floors with separate rooms for private parties or business luncheons, an arched exposed brick wall dually divides the space and cultivates comfort. The smallest details--custom sconces, specially made rubber coasters, and large enveloping chairs--are invitations to stay a (long) while and enjoy a few of the house's specialty cocktails and extensive menu, prepared by 29-year old executive chef, Christopher Dunn.
House cocktails, largely the design of co-owner Michael Waterhouse (John Mautone is the other owner), are the product of 20 years behind the bar, searching for the finest elixirs. The "clover club" fuses Bombay Gin with fresh lemon juice and a homemade raspberry liqueur; the divine Pepper Basil Caipirinha brings together herbaceous basil, Beleza Pura Cachaca, sugar, lime, and ground white pepper. Fresh seasonal fruit finds its way into the martini glass, mashed, pureed, or made into syrups that translate into beautiful drinks, subtle in color, but strong on flavor.
The menu takes a similar approach: quirky twists on classic favorites. The beautiful beet & bleu carpaccio is light, refreshing, and colorful--combining beets 3 ways with deeply veined Maytag bleu. Stuffed pork belly is braised and served beside a bed of baby arugula and cranberry beans and a lightly poached duck egg, whose yolk comes eagerly oozing out at the lighest touch. The arugula was dressed with a memorable balsamic; the pork belly felt as though it should be hotter than it was, though lacking flavor wasn't a problem. The sweet corn souffle, recommended over and over again by both Dunn and our waitress, was a perfect mid-meal course. Souffles, as any chef knows, can either grandiously rise or crash--this one arrived at our table and was immediately split and soaked in lobster bisque. Plumes of steam came rising out of the ramekin and succulent chunks of fresh lobsters lolled around in the souffle. If you order one dish, this is the one; Gothamist could eat this every day.
Entrees are hearty and the menu offers perennial favorites like roasted organic chicken, seared Atlantic cod, a house cheeseburger, and filet mignon. After deliberating, we went with the veal cordon bleu, a pounded veal loin chop wrapped in serrano ham and aged chedder, served with roasted tomatoes and a mornay sauce and the Brek Ridge Farms baby back ribs, marinated in a dry rub that left us craving a saucier experience, likely satisfied by the beef short ribs which come dressed in a Kansas City glaze. Ingredients are fresh and seasonal, slaw has roasted garlic, tomatoes are well-smoked, and presentation is thoughtful.
Devin Tavern offers elegant comfort and familiar food with well-chosen ingredients served in hearty portions. The type of place to splurge and bring a date, celebrate an anniversary, treat a close friend, or just relax with an after-work cocktail, Devin Tavern promises a satisfying addition to Tribeca's ever-expanding gastronomic repetoire.
Devin Tavern is located at 363 Greenwich Street. (212) 334 - 7337. Open for lunch and dinner, 7 days a week.
