(BitchcakesNY's Flickr)

Cafe de La Esquina at the Wythe Diner: We were pretty broken up when Relish, the classic chrome railcar-style diner in Wiliamsburg, abruptly closed last summer. Then we were ambivalent when it was revealed that the team behind the exclusive scenester Nolita club La Esquina would be taking over the formerly democratic establishment. Now, with their revamp poised to open on Monday, we've come to terms with it. Hopefully, the place won't turn into an obnoxious club with velvet ropes and idling Escalades out front, and as long as some sanity remains in effect, it'll surely be better than any number of other gentrifying fates that usually befall places like this.

According to the website for what is now awkwardly called Cafe de La Esquina at the Wythe Diner, the new concept for the place consists of a casual late night diner up front that doesn't take reservations; a more intimate, upscale back room that does take reservations and serves "a robust selection of small plates, Taquitoes, Tostados, and main plates"; and a taqueria and garden. The taqueria "offers a fun, light atmosphere, complete with a take-away counter and service window. A selection of tasty tacos, sandwiches and salads are offered for those on-the-go. In the warmer months, tap beer and shaved ices are available for guests to be enjoyed in the garden." At night, there will be al fresco seating for the Diner available for guests.

The interior of the Eisenhower-era establishment has been given a careful facelift without messing with its atavistic charm, and the menu from Chef Akhtar Nawab seems to have a wide variety of options. In short, we're actually looking forward to checking it out, despite our attachment to the past. Let's just be glad the place wasn't torn down to build a Duane Reade condo (yet).

225 Wythe Avenue, Brooklyn, (718) 393-5500

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