In some ways, this is an emblematic pandemic-era restaurant tale, a somewhat convoluted story of doing whatever it takes to make it through the winter. It starts with Good Enough To Eat, an Upper West Side staple, famous especially for its brunch, since 1981. Launched by Carrie Levin and Ann Nickinson on Amsterdam Avenue (they catered my wedding in 1994), the comfort-food favorite moved over to Columbus in 2013 after their landlord refused to renew the lease, partnering with Jeremy Wladis and The Restaurant Group.

Today, Good Enough To Eat has both sidewalk and curbside seating and remains popular at brunch, but Wladis also owns the space next door, recently revamped for his upcoming Japanese restaurant, Hachi Maki, which is ready to go the moment Governor Cuomo allows indoor dining again. But since he had his Japanese cuisine team ready now, Wladis decided to open an outdoor pop-up in the interim, a tachigui-style (or "eating standing up") restaurant called Good Ramen To Eat.

The menu here is short and succinct, anchored by four different types of ramen. There's a good Shoyu Ramen, the broth dark and rich, the generous tangle of noodles nice and firm, some greens and a six-minute egg adding to the fun, and a hefty serving of beef sukiyaki floating around as well. Even better is the Midnight Diner Ramen, which had a great stoner/hangover-cure vibe to it, packed with curly instant Shin noodles, slabs of Spam, lots of kimchi and seaweed, and a runny fried egg, all swimming in a fiery broth. This is a delicious bowl of food, and an especially welcome one in freezing temperatures.

The Miso Ramen features pork chashu and an abundance of corn, and the brothless Mazemen seems like a garlic-lovers delight. There are a few starters available too, all of which my companion and I enjoyed, especially the thick Char Siu Bao, which nailed the required balance of sweet and sharp, soft and crunchy. The Gyoza were plump with plenty of pork, and the Takoyaki didn't skimp on the chunks of octopus lurking inside. All in all, a deeply satisfying wintertime meal. Cocktails, beer, and sake are available for the drinkers among you.

The setup is good, too — a cheerfully lit, well ventilated, and blessedly heated outdoor space on Columbus Avenue featuring about a half dozen standing-only tables and a buffer of sorts between you and passersby thanks to some scaffolding. It's designed for a quick meal, but do you want to linger in 29-degree weather anyway, and with the threat of new variants in the air? I sure don't. That said, if you desire some sweet after your savory, your intrepid server can bring you over a piece of cake or pie from the outdoor pastry case at Good Enough To Eat proper.

Midnight Diner Ramen ($16)

Scott Lynch / Gothamist

Good Ramen To Eat is located at 522 Columbus Avenue, at the corner of West 85th Street, and is currently open from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. daily. Starting on February 1, the hours will expand from noon to 9 p.m. (goodramentoeeat.com)