The latest in our Quick Bites series brings us to Manhattan's Grand Street for juicy burgers, pressed ice cream sandwiches, and crispy fried green tomatoes.
THE VIBE
I'm not 100% sure about this—we're more about the diner experience here on the East Coast—but Genuine Superette's take on the classic California roadside stand seems to totally nail that other-coast eatery icon.
Genuine Superette is good looking and super chill, with its communal tables, counter-ordering set up, genuinely friendly (and equally helpful) staff, and big open windows through which breezes can blow and Little Italy tourists can gawk.
There's also a working boombox embedded into the wall, a free jukebox of sorts surrounded by what looks like every 1980s and '90s cool-kid cassette collection. Go ahead and, as LL once said, "pop in a cassette and push play..."
Scott Lynch/Gothamist
That Genuine Superette looks fully pulled together is no surprise: this is an AvroKO joint after all, the design and concept team responsible for such sleek NYC hits as Saxon and Parole, Public, Hudson Eats, and Gotham Market, as well as the only semi-stand-alone spot within that Hell's Kitchen food court, and the parent of this new place, Genuine Roadside.
The location on the corner of Mulberry and Grand is kind of weird for a borderline hipster, upscale comfort-food restaurant, right in the heart of all of those cannoli hawkers and interchangeable pasta and clam ristorantes, but if anyone can lure in the locals and tempt the lovelies of Nolita to venture down a block or two, it's these guys. And this food.
THE BITES
The Genuine Superette menu is filled with appealing choices—Chef Brad Farmerie is Michelin-starred—some of which will be familiar to Gotham West and Roadside frequenters.
The best thing I had on two visits here on opening weekend was probably the Super Duper Stack Burger, a deliciously messy delight with double juicy patties, gooey melted American, sweet pickles, a "house sauce" with some bite, and optional/required bacon. Nicely balanced, wholly satisfying, an instant classic.
Or maybe it was Fried Green Tomato Sandwich, new to this Genuine location, that truly won my heart? The tomatoes are thick-sliced and fried-up crunchy, there are several avocado wedges in there, as well as fresh lettuce and a generous slathering of charred jalapeno mayo, all barely held in place by the soft Orwashers potato roll. This is an excellent sandwich, and next time I'm adding bacon for the full BLT effect.
Genuine Superette offers two kinds of fries: crisp and salty "regulars," and a spiced-up sweet potato variety. You can order a half-and-half boat of these beauties, which is totally the way to go because both are great.
One of the gimmicks here is the rotating guest dish, courtesy of a renowned local chef. Right now that dish is late-of-Elm Paul Liebrandt's Fish and Chips, a heavily-battered slab of tender, steaming cod which you can dip into some thick, pickle-y mayo, and which you should not consider if you don't like salt, and should if you do.
Another deep cut on the menu, the muddled Chicken Tacos with Lemongrass, was the least successful dish I tried--sweet, spicy, vinegary, Asian-y... the flavors clashed rather than complemented, and it didn't really seem to know what it wanted to be—but I imagine they'll work that out. The crew in the kitchen know what they're doing and, equally important, they clearly care about putting good food on your table.
The other big news about Genuine Superette are Sam Mason's ice cream sandwiches, for which the "ice cream king" of Oddfellows sources the actual ice cream, concocts the (somewhat strange) flavor combos, and set up two of his custom-made brioche presses at the counter. Full disclosure about these: I am not usually a fan of the brioche ice cream sandwich--why bury all that tasty, tasty dessert inside bread?--but Mason may have won me over with his presses, which warms the doughy outside while keeping the sweetness within nice and cold. You can also just get a scoop or three in a bowl, with toppings like caramel sauce, chocolate pearls, and fruity pebbles.
THE VERDICT
Genuine Superette has all the makings of a local favorite and a go-to spot whenever you're in the Soho/Nolita neck of the woods. It's not cheap, exactly--my burger with added bacon was about $13, and those ice cream sandwiches cost about $9--but it's certainly reasonable for these neighborhoods. I know I'll be back, and soon, to try the fried chicken, the spicy smokehouse burger, and maybe one of those salads. Good stuff, and a welcome addition to your downtown dining options.
Genuine Superette is located at 191 Grand Street, at the corner of Mulberry. You can get beer, wine, and boozy juice cocktails. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. (646-726-4633; eatgenuine.com)
