The Lower East Side's Tenement Museum uncovers the lives of New York City's immigrants by exploring the homes they made for themselves when they first arrived in this country. Late last year, the museum began a new series, Culinary Conversations, which brings local chefs, authors, historians and more to the museum to discuss New York's rich food heritage and how it relates to our modern restaurant and eating culture. Jane Ziegelman, a food historian and writer who authored 97 Orchard: An Edible History of Five Immigrant Families In One New York Tenement, curates and hosts the monthly series, which kicked off with a visit from Noah and Rae Bernamoff of Mile End.
Tuesday night, Chef Daniel Humm and general manager Will Guidara of Elevan Madison Park engaged in a lively discussion with moderator William Grimes about New York City's food identity and whether we had a "signature" dish of our own. The duo discussed ingredients they felt exemplified our state—including oysters, carrots and stone fruits—and discussed how the farm-to-table movement has come full circle, with certain chefs and restaurants personally sponsoring area farms to source product for their establishments. The duo also joked about an ongoing and lively discussion with Alinea chef Grant Achatz about New York vs. Chicago hot dogs and revealed that their next big innovation at EMP will revolved around shaved ice.
During the hour and a half chat, small bites from the restaurant's impressive four hour, $195-per-person tasting menu were passed around, including two riffs on a classic Black-and-White cookie (one savory, one sweet); raw oyster with wood sorrel, buckwheat and mignoette; and a play on steak tartare made with carrot and served on toasted rye bread. The bites were incredibly delicious, to be sure, but if you plan on attending one of the two upcoming convos, make sure you eat a hearty lunch.
Next up in the series, Eat the City author Robin Shulman will lead Eat This City: Farming The Five Boroughs, a discussion with urban agriculture activists, including Derek Denckla of The Greenest and Bronx community gardener Karen Washington, with food from local farm-to-table vendors on hand. Then on June 19th, Rich Torrisi and Mario Carbone—the duo behind the ridiculously popular joints Torrisi Italian Specialties, Parm, and uber-hyped Carbone—discuss "what it means to cook 'Italian' in today's New York" with Mitchell Davis, Vice President of the James Beard House. As your mouth will certainly be watering, a tasting will immediately follow the chat.
Tickets to both events are $30 and can be purchased on the Museum's website.
