A neon red Hot Bialys sign beckons, Krispy Kreme-style, from the front window of Kossar's Bagels & Bialys—note the new bagel prominence—now entering the next chapter in its life following a four month renovation to the historic bakery. In the next phase of its 80-year history, Kossar's has undergone a sprucing up, replacing the open kitchen with a new through-the-looking-glass model, where visitors can watch the bialys from inception. There's also an expanded menu, including the bagels that new owners Evan Giniger and David Zablocki brought on board when they took over in 2013, plus more options for eating beyond carbs-and-spreads.
The newish ownership isn't changing the basic bialy formula. They're still using the same four ingredients (water, flour, yeast, salt) and some traditional toppings (onion, garlic), but they're also introducing whole wheat varieties and another flavored with sun dried tomatoes. On top, a new line of house-made cream cheeses (Schmears) like a Caper-Jalapeno—the winner of the bunch in my opinion—Olive, and Horseradish and Pickle in addition to more classic flavors.
You'll find the spreads on their new line of sandwiches, too, which are reminiscent of the creations coming out of places like nearby Black Seed. The Yenta ($13) piles whitefish salad, pastrami salmon, lettuce, shaved celery, tomato and red onion onto a bagel or bialy of your choice; The Czar ($14.95), sliced nova, Schmears parsley dill cream cheese, pickled beets and salmon roe on a pumpernickel bagel. They're also doing egg sandwiches, babka and challah french toast, and even a grilled cheese made with challah bread.
Perhaps most startling new menu item—starting in a few weeks—is something hidden way at the bottom: pizza bagels. Yes, the new Kossar's will be serving the much-maligned hybrid foodstuff on both their bagels and their pletzels (large, flat onion discs). "People were looking for more lunch, dinner options, so we thought why not?" Giniger told me at last night's sneak peek of the new space. "We had cheese, sauce is easy to make, and people can choose their own toppings." New Yorkers are a picky bunch when it comes to bagels and pizza, so let's see if they'll embrace the two when joined in unholy matrimony.
367 Grand Street, 212-473-4810; kossars.com
