The Texification of New York City keeps right on rolling with new quick-service taco and burrito restaurant Tres Carnes, which opened along a busy stretch of Sixth Avenue in the Flatiron last week. The restaurant—which is reminiscent of another burrito joint named for a smoke-dried jalapeno—combines Mexican fare with Texas-style barbecue, a cuisine executive chef Sasha Shor has dubbed "Texican." Smoked brisket, chicken adobo and pork shoulder are paired with a variety of rices, beans and salsas and dispensed in your chosen form: burrito, taco or bowl. The joint has an additional bit of street cred in the kitchen: Pitmaster Mike Rodriguez worked at BBQ mecca The Salt Lick for nearly a decade.
A smoked brisket burrito ($8.73) with Mexican yellow rice, "Charros" Cowboy Pintos and Fire-Roasted Tomato Adobo salsa was mercifully smaller than some behemoth burritos on offer these days. The brisket was tender and well-seasoned; the rice and beans added heft without adding weight. The pork shoulder tacos ($8.04), which came with tart pickled onions, were tasty too but a little on the dry side for what is usually a fattier cut of meat. Given Rodriguez's experience, we'll give him an opening week pass to work out the kinks before passing judgement. The most successful side dish we tried was the Street-Cart Esquites ($4.59), an off-the-cob version of the popular Mexican street food. Tender niblets of sweet corn are mixed with smokey lime mayo and topped with cilantro, cotija and crema for a much less messy than the original snack.
No booze for now—the liquor license is still a few weeks off—but they'll offer a few interpretations of Michelada, including one with The Cock's Tail Bloody Mariachi and one with chipotle puree. Sadly they won't have Shiner but they will have Lone Star and a Mexican beer on tap. In the meantime, sip on refreshing Cucumber-Apple-Lime agua fresca, fresh agave limeade or a variety of Mexican sodas.
688 Sixth Avenue; 212-989-8737
