Fourteen years ago chef Saul Bolton opened his eponymous restaurant in Boerum Hill, long before Brooklyn had chefs clamoring to open the "next best thing" in the borough. The restaurant thrived with support from locals, as well as the once-daring foodies who traveled from parts West to dine on the chef's local, unfussy cuisine. Now the Michelin-starred restaurant has pulled up its roots and transplanted itself inside the Brooklyn Museum, where the chef and his team will operate Saul Restaurant, as well as the Museum's cafe, the Counter.
Bolton has more room to play around in the 87-seat dining room, designed to highlight the abstract murals by artist Paul Kelpe that adorn the walls. Equally artistic, as well as delicious, are Bolton's dishes; elegantly presented, they draw the eye like a fine work of art, at once intriguingly complex but with a focused intent. An appetizer of Cured Scottish Salmon ($14) deconstructs the bagel-and-a-schmear, presenting the bright pink fish accompanied by cream cheese, dill, capers, rye croutons and glistening orbs of salty salmon roe. Meaty Atlantic Black Bass ($25) sits atop a vibrant tagine broth with verdant flair from celery, apples and cilantro. Dry Aged Squab ($32) comes geometrically scattered across the plate with pops of bright spiced yogurt and earthy roasted carrots.
The chef's homemade desserts also made the move, including his take on Baked Alaska ($12), with chocolate semifreddo, coffee caramel and banana rum cake. As with his original restaurant, Chef Bolton offers a reasonably-priced Dinner Prix Fixe ($45) with a choice of appetizers (sunchoke soup or roasted squash salad), entree (Crystal Valley Chicken or the Atlantic Black Bass) and dessert (Battenkill Panna Cotta or Olive Oil Cake). Less formal meals can be taken at the Counter, which offers salads ($8-9.50), soups, sandwiches ($8-9.50) and a daily-changing entree, plus small snacks, Brooklyn Roasting coffee, wine and beer.
Saul Restaurant is located inside the Brooklyn Museum at 200 Eastern Parkway, (718) 935-9842; saulrestaurant.com
