Green gold! A bowl of ramps, and the John Dory with ramps. (Courtesy of Tarallucci e Vino)

Ramps are not yet in the greenmarkets (that we know of... have you seen them? WHAT DO YOU KNOW?), but they are in restaurants. They often turn up in restaurants first, since some preserve from the previous season, or go ramp hunting a little earlier. We received our first Ramps Alert today, which came from Tarallucci e Vino on East 18th Street.

It would be cruel of us not to share.

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Gnudi with ramps. (Courtesy of Tarallucci e Vino)

Chef Andrew Welch has prepared three ramps specials for tonight: Gnudi with ramps, mushrooms and fiddlehead ferns ($21), and John Dory with ceci beans and ramps ($32).

Not pictured: baby artichokes with smoked duck breast, poached duck egg and ramps.