It's been open for less than a month, but Amanda Cohen's Dirt Candy reboot is already a huge hit, with weeks-long waits to snag a seat and eat her deliciously manipulated vegetables. In her minuscule original restaurant, Cohen revealed her prowess for taking ordinary ingredients and transforming them into something decadent, like the incredible Broccoli Dogs we've gushed about before. In fact, the chef shows an excellent handle on broccoli in general, as evidenced by the Korean Fried Broccoli "snack" also on the menu.
As Cohen told us during our visit, everything tastes good fried, though that doesn't make all friend things equal, as anyone who's received soggy, under-salted french fries understands. Cohen and team show a mastery of the frying system with this dish, which sees battered florets fried to a deep, golden brown, then drizzled with garlicky, slightly sweet sauces, sesame seeds and slivers of green onions.
The resulting vegetable matter is super crunchy and satisfying, with the broccoli retaining some of its structure even under the high heat. It's rich but not nap-inducing, though if you opt for a second order—as you'll want to—there are no such guarantees. You're better off saving room for the other tasty dishes farther down the menu.
86 Allen Street at Broome Street, 212-228-7732; website
