Cooking Our Favorite Restaurant Dishes at Home
Gothamist was enjoying cans of Old Milwaukee (aka ‘Ol Swill) in college when chef Gray Kunz was concluding his four star run at the old Lespinasse. The lore of his innovative food has been rehashed in seemingly ever food publication since, making him until recently the most famous chef without a kitchen. Kunz’s five year absence, in combination with the incessant coverage of the opening of Café Gray, made the anticipation and expectations for his cooking seem impossible to fulfill.
Sure enough, the lobster chowder at Café Gray was just that - it tasted and was presented exactly as you’d expect. So was roasted lamb with eggplant timbale. It was nice (a bit overcooked), but where was the super-chef that Gothamist has been reading about? The insane hype made us want to be wowed, not just satisfied.
The only dish at Café Gray that delivered on our admittedly wacked expectations was a puffed corn crusted fluke dish. The simple, light, crunchy and airy coating for the tender fish was surprisingly subtle, as well as quick and easy to make at home. Gothamist substituted Rice Krispies for the puffed corn, with nice results.
A few Spring touches of our own and we have a Gray Kuntz inspired Gothamist Recipe, minus the hype.
Rice Krispie Cod
minted pea puree, carrot juice reduction
As this dish only has three separate elements, you can get this prepared in about 30 minutes. Use frozen peas if you have time constraints – you’ll still have a great dish. Note: Gothamist used cod for this dish as fluke was not available.
Ingredient Shopping List
Recipe serves two people.
(2) 6-8 oz. pieces of thickest, freshest Cod (or Fluke, Halibut) fillets
1 stick unsalted butter
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1 large clove garlic
1 shallot
1 bag frozen peas or 1.5 cup fresh shucked spring peas
1 bunch fresh mint
1 8 oz bottle of fresh carrot juice
1 lemon
1 box Rice Krispies cereal (1 small miniature box is enough).
1 small piece parmigiano reggiano (only need ¼ cup or less grated)
Estimated cost of ingredients: $25 at Fairway
Special Equipment:
Food processor, aluminum foil, kitchen brush
Reduce Carrot Juice
Place the entire bottle of juice in a small saucepan and bring it to a boil. After boiling, turn to medium high heat and reduce by 2/3, about 15 minutes. It should be thick enough to cover the back of a spoon. We’ll finish the sauce right before serving.
Make the Fish
Begin this step while the carrot juice is reducing. Turn oven on to 350.
Take two tablespoons of butter and melt over medium low heat, about 3 minutes. Reserve. Place your Rice Krispies in a bowl (all of a miniature box, about 3/4 cup from large box).
Set out fish fillets on foil lined baking pan. Thoroughly dry with paper towels. Season each piece and each side with salt and pepper. Using a brush (teaspoon OK), paint melted butter on one side of the fish, making sure to cover the entire area with a small thin coating. Add a handful of Rice Krispies and firmly press them to stick to fish. Gently flip and repeat for other side. (It’s up to you how much of the Rice Krispies to add, whatever sticks naturally was fine with us.)
Add the rest of the melted butter to the bottom of the pan, one squeeze of lemon, as well as about 5 tablespoons water. This helps create moisture and a sauce while roasting in the oven. Place a piece of foil lightly over the top of the fish.
Check on the fish after about 6 minutes, as your oven and fish size may differ. The fish should be moist yet firm at about the 8 minute mark.
Make the Pea Puree
If using frozen peas, take them out of the box (or half of a bag) and rinse under warm water in a strainer for about 2 minutes until thawed. If using fresh peas, blanch in boiling,salted water for about 2 minutes and shock in ice water. Chop one clove garlic, shallot, and about two tablespoons worth of mint. Grate the parm regg cheese, about ¼ cup. Place a glug of olive oil in a pan and place on medium heat. Add shallot and after a minute the garlic. After a minute, add the mint and quickly follow with the peas. Season with salt, pepper and mix. After another minute, turn off the heat and place the mixture into the food processor but reserve about three tablespoons of peas for garnish.
Add the cheese to the rest of the mixture, add a squeeze of lemon and puree until smooth. (You can add another knob of butter here if you’d like). Taste, season and set aside.
Finish the Dish
Bring your carrot reduction to heat and add a teaspoon of butter, squeeze of lemon juice, salt and pepper to taste. Keep on warm.
Place a about two tablespoons of pea puree in the center of plate. Place some of the reserved whole peas around the sides. Take the fish out of the oven and check for doneness. It should be moist yet firm. Place on top of pea puree and spoon any of the remaining pan juices on top of fish. Spoon a few tablespoon of carrot reduction around the peas and serve.
