Whether you call them variety meats, off cuts, or simply offal, hearts, tripe, tendons and the like aren’t the first things that spring to mind as fit for a gourmet feast.
But thanks to the offal wizardry of Chef Chris Cosentino, just such a dinner was served Tuesday at the Astor Center. Cosentino, the executive chef of Incanto, graced New York with his annual “Head to Tail Dinner,” which he usually holds at his San Francisco restaurant. This was no small feat given that he only got into town Sunday. Of course some might say the real challenge was devising a creative and delicious menu that celebrates the so-called nasty bits.
It’s a challenge that Cosentino pulled off handily, with the exception of one dish: crudo of venison liver with beets and juniper balsamic (pictured below, left). The evening’s host, Michael Ruhlman, pointed out, “It’s not for everybody,” but encouraged people to try at least one piece. There was nothing wrong with the flavor, but the chewy texture left much to be desired. The other raw creation, beef heart tartare puttanesca was creamy and delicious (pictured below, right).
As Cosentino noted, "These are very rich dishes." None was richer than the immense whole roasted spring lamb neck. "This is a brontosaurus neck," he quipped when discussing the dish. What could possibly be served as dessert at such a feast? Candied cockscombs, naturally. Cosentino had wanted to serve chocolate blood pudding, but the Astor Center’s director, Lesley Townsend, requested the cockscombs. Thanks to hours of cooking, the rooster crowns bobbing in the bowl of bay leaf-infused rice pudding had a firm, chewy texture that Cosentino likened to “gummi bears that you’ve been carrying around in your pocket for hours.”
