Since 1993, Kulwinder Singh's small but mighty Punjabi Deli has been holding it down 24/7 on First Street, year after year feeding waves of cab drivers, in-the-know East Village locals, and Lower East Side party people with deeply satisfying, impossibly inexpensive vegetarian Indian food. It's one of those indispensable neighborhood spots that we too often take for granted, like it will never not be there for us when we need it.

There have been warning signs over the years about Punjabi's future, however. Those waves of customers ebbing with the endless construction on Houston during the 2010s, which essentially created a torn-up moat in front of the place. And the overall decline of cabbies in the ride-share era, a group which constituted a significant portion of Singh's regulars. And then COVID hit, and for the first time in more than 25 years of round-the-clock service, Singh was forced to close his doors.

Those doors didn't just shut for a few days, or even weeks. Singh shuttered Punjabi Deli for nearly four months, only reopening in mid July after the pandemic seemed more under control in the city, and his staff felt safe working together again in a small, indoor space.

Two masked customers at a time please

Scott Lynch / Gothamist

It was into that small, indoor space that I ventured twice this week, to see how one of my old standbys was faring. Thankfully, if we're just talking about the food, the answer is a resounding "never better." The trays holding everything from vegetable curries to fried samosas to sweet gulab jamun were all stocked full and fresh, the selection as extensive as ever, the prices still astonishingly low.

I ate way too much both times and everything was spectacular. This is all skillfully prepared food, loaded with flavor and much more spicy than I remembered. And, at $7, the combo platter of nicely chewy long grain rice topped with your choice of three vegetable curries—I went with the thick pureed spinach, the barely-sweet squash, and the lively "black chickpeas"—remains one of the best deals in town.

You can't go wrong with Punjabi's stuffed-and-fried appetizer selection either. The Samosas are plump, the puck-sized Aloo Tikkis, or spiced potato patties, have considerable presence, and I got a whole sack of crisp Pakoras for only two bucks, the bag of greens deep-fried with chickpea batter particularly good when dipped in the accompanying sticky or vinegary sauces.

And the party doesn't stop with the savory stuff. Punjabi has a full lineup of desserts and treats, including dense, fudgy squares made from the likes of milk caramel, carrot, and gram flour, and Gulab Jamuns, or what the helpful counter person called "honey balls." These all were just sweet enough to hit the spot without being overwhelmingly sugary. Kheer, or rice pudding, and kulfi ice cream round out the considerable number of options in this part of the case.

Singh and Punjabi Deli crew are loaded up and eager to feed you well. You order inside, only two masked customers at a time please, and everything is heated (if requested) and bagged up quickly for takeout. Now that the Houston Street construction is finally finished there are three long benches outside that make for a handy, distanced mealtime perch, or, if you're feeling vigorous, you can walk seven blocks up Avenue A for a picnic in Tompkins Square Park.

It would really suck to lose Punjabi Deli, to Covid or anything else. Consider this a rallying cry for all of us to get out there as much possible and support the city's vital small businesses.

Punjabi Deli is located at 114 East First Street, just north of Houston, and is currently open daily from 8 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. (212-533-3356)