Upper East Side French brasserie L'Absinthe opened in 1995, but the namesake beverage wasn't officially served until quite recently, because the the anise-flavored liquor was believed to be illegal in the U.S. According to The Wormood Society, absinthe was banned by the FDA in 1917 because of concerns that a chemical called thujone could cause toxic convulsions, brain damage, and liver damage. While later changes to the law don't specifically cite absinthe, it prohibits any food or drink containing an excess of 10ppm of thujone. When a study several years ago determined that absinthe distilled with traditional 19th century methods contains less thujone than the proscribed amount, the path to U.S. distribution was cleared.
So that's all fascinating, but as Jack finally asks in Sideways, "When do we drink it?" At L'Absinthe, that's nightly, during their L'Heure Verte; i.e. the "Green Hour." While one can choose from a variety of absinthe at any time of night, the brasserie's 9 p.m. absinthe tastings are held communally, and the group setting evokes a spirit of relaxed bonhomie as the other diners gradually clear out, leaving the die hards alone with the "Green Fairy."
L'Absinthe serves absinthe using the traditional style, with a fountain that slowly drips ice water into the absinthe through a sugar cube resting on a spoon on top of the glass. The leisurely process releases the herbs in the absinthe and balances out the prominent anise flavor. Each serving at L'Absinthe ranges in price from $12 to $16, and varieties include La Clandestine, St. George Absinthe Verte, and the American-made Lucid. And if you have time, it's definitely worth stopping by early for the food; chef Jean-Michel Bergougnoux is currently doing a $30.09 three-course prix fixe menu which includes options such as peppercorn country pate, grilled hanger steak, and a healthful brandade of Maine codfish. (There's also dining a la carte.)
L'Absinthe // 227 East 67th Street // (212) 794-4950
