Many of our Ethnic Eating Adventures have taken place in the outer boroughs. For example: for years now, Woodside, Queens, has been nicknamed "Little Manila" thanks to its large Filipino population (currently clocking in at about 15%), which naturally leads to dozens of Filipino restaurants, bakeries and groceries along the area's main drag, Roosevelt Avenue. More recently, a handful of Filipino restaurants have opened in Manhattan, particularly in the East Village, some with less traditional takes on the cuisine than their outer-borough counterparts. For those who can't tell a sinigang from a sisig, here's where to start.
The basics: Filipino food is as much a melting pot of cuisines as New York is of people. It takes its influences from the Spanish colonialists who once ruled the country to the Chinese immigrants that flooded in over the past century. Expect a lot of pork, and some funky, sour soups and sauces that don't necessarily gel with the American palate. That being said, unless you're a strict vegetarian, you'll probably find something you like. Such as:
Arroz Caldo: Similar to Chinese congee, it's basically rice porridge with hunks of chicken, shot through with plenty of ginger and scallions to spice it up. We like East Village newcomer Maharlika's version, which gussies up the gruel with saffron and achuete oil.
Adobo: One of the most popular dishes in the Philippines, adobo refers to meat braised in a heady mixture of vinegar, garlic and soy sauce until it's deeply colored and fall-apart tender. If you've never had it before, take a trip to Ditmas Park to try the version at Purple Yam, one of the city's most revered Filipino restaurants.
Balut: Of course, no mention of Filipino food would be complete with balut, a fertilized duck egg with a partially-developed embryo inside. It's a common street snack in the Philippines and a great way to impress your gastronomically adventurous friends here—Maharlika will walk first-timers through the process without judgment.
Bangus: Yes, the name is funny. Have you quit tittering yet? Bangus, aka milkfish, is a mild, flattish, white-fleshed fish that shows up in all sorts of dishes on the island. One of the nicest is sinigang, a sour tamarind-based soup (similar to Thailand's tom yum) with hunks of fish and vegetables at fellow East Village newcomer Sa Aming Nayon.
Ensaymada: Straddling the line between dessert and a snack, ensaymada are buttery little sweet rolls topped with grated parmesan cheese and sugar—if they sound weird on paper, they won't taste it at Woodside's Red Ribbon Bake Shop, which sells the addictive buns in increments of eight.
Kare-Kare: A great, filling stew with a peanutty base and big hunks of meat (traditionally oxtail) and hearty vegetables like eggplant and string beans. The gelatinous stew thickened up even more with crushed peanuts and rice, and is usually served with bagoong alamang (sauteed shrimp paste). Grill 21 in Gramercy makes a good version.
Lechon Kawali: Remember when we said to expect a lot of pork? Meet lechon kawali—great fatty hunks of pork belly, boiled into tender submission with garlic and peppers, then deep-fried until crispy and golden, served with a garlicky-soy dipping sauce. Ihawan, a no-frills Filipino barbecue joint in Woodside, does it well and cheap.
Sisig: Sisig is the ultimate "pulutan," the word Filipinos use to describe the food that accompanies long nights of boozing. It's a sizzling platter of chopped pig face (and ears, and sometimes innards), tossed with chopped onions and chili peppers, topped with a raw egg just before serving. Everything is chopped into tiny pieces and all it tastes like is greasy, pork deliciousness. Try it at old-timer Krystal's in Woodside for the real deal.
